Soda Fired Shop Glaze Tests

Here are some wet glaze blends from the Armory Shop Glazes. Each test was mixed in a small 12 oz styro coffee cup and decanted from already mixed shop glazes with a plastic 60cc  medical syringe. The recipes can be scaled to any amount (for each tile, I mixed about 30cc of glaze).

Recipes Below
Recipes Below

Blend Recipes:

  1. 2 parts Tenmoku/1 Part Angel Eyes/ 1 Part No Man’s Black
  2. 2 Parts Angel Eyes/ 1 Part Tenmoku/ 1 Part Ohata Khaki
  3. 3 Parts Angel Eyes/ 1 Part No Man’s Black
  4. 4 Parts Tenmoku/1 Part Angel Eyes
  5. 4 Parts Angel Eyes/1 Part Tenmoku
  6. 4 Parts No Man’s Black/1 Part Angel Eyes
  7. 2 Parts Ohata Khaki/1 Part Angel Eyes
  8. 2 Parts No Man’s Black/1 Part Angel Eyes/1 Part Tenmoku
  9. 2 Parts Tenmoku/1 Part No Man’s Black
  10. 4 parts Angel Eyes/1 Part Redart Slip
  11. 1 Part No man’s Black/1 Part Angel Eyes/ 1 part Tenmoku
  12. 1 Part No Man’s Black/ I part Ohata Khaki/ I part Angel Eyes

Glaze recipes:

  • Strontium Crystal Magic : Custer Feldspar 40, Calcium Carb 15, Tile 6 Kaolin 12, Strontium Carb. 11, Lithium Carb 4, Frit #3124 4, Bentonite 2| Zinc Oxide .5, Titanium Diox 15
  • No Man’s Black: Kona F-4 Feldspar 524, Dolomite 268, Whiting 184, Kaolin 880, Flint 1048,  Neph Sy 1000, Bentonite 80, Red Iron Oxide 320, Cobalt Carb. 100
  • Tenmoku: G-200 Feldspar 46.5, Whiting 17.4, EpK 10.7, Silica 23.2, Zinc 2.2, Red Iron Ox. 10
  • Ohata Khaki: Custer Feldspar 43.2, Talc 5.6, Whiting 6.4, Bone Ash 8.8, EPK 5.6, Silica 19.2, Red Iron Ox. 9.6
  • Angel Eyes: Custer 40, Whiting 20, EPK 10, Silica 30, Red Iron Ox. 5, Rutile 4

Soda Fired Commercial Clays

So I wanted to see what all of my locally available commercial clay looked like in our Soda Kiln. I took 12 commercially available clay bodies tested in this base recipe to get an idea which were more likely to flash:

10 Nepheline Syenite, 10 200m Silica, 80 Clay

For good measure I threw in a few Shino glazes, and tried calcined EPK for the hell of it (I actually wanted to see if it deflocculated like the rest of them.. it didn’t really…)

From the 100g test batches, I then tested each slip/shino on Laguna 550 Porcelain, B-Mix, and Miller 510 Stoneware in 2 firings that were unfortunately pretty similar in atmosphere and soda introduction. First firing on top, 2nd on bottom. Tiles were scattered throughout the kiln, so some got blasted, others not so much.  Standard body reduction and reduction firing to cone 9/10, heavy reduction during soda intro, and reduction cooling from 2300-1800F. I scanned the sides that were more interesting, or showed more variation. Hope this helps you narrow down what you might be looking for with soda fired clay slips!

Armory Shop Glaze Blue Tests

1. Gloss White Dip 3 sec, Rob’s Light Blue Very Thick. Cobalt Wash in Corner

2. Gloss White 15sec dip, Laura’s Blue Black Very thick (Cracked off when drying)

3. Gloss White 15 sec dip, Best Barium 3 sec dip

4. Gloss White 15sec, Cobalt wash corner, LW Blue 3sec dip

5. Gloss White 10 sec dip, Cobalt wash corner, Textured Blue 5 sec dip

6. Gloss White 15 sec dip, Cobalt Wash corner, No Man’s Black 10 sec dip

7 Rob’s Light Blue 13 sec dip, Bobby Blue, Cobalt Wash Corner

8. LW Blue 3 sec, Gloss White 8 sec dip at angle, Hannahs fake Ash 3 sec dip at angle

9. Textured Blue 3 sec., Gloss white dip at angle, Hannah’s fake ash dip at angle

10. Cobalt streaks with wash, Rob’s Light blue 1 sec at angle, Gloss white 3 sec at angle

C6 Triaxial Blend. Robin’s Egg Blue, Bermuda Green, Cobalt Carb.

Here was a basic triaxial blend we did in my Celadon Glaze class. Essentially you’re mixing proportions of 3 different colorants in a systematic way. I recommend mixing 3 x 300g cups of a base formula

For our class, we used the base recipe:

Cone 6 Wide Firing Clear

Kona Feldspar 38

Whiting 14

Zinc Oxide 12

OM4 Ball Clay 15

Silica 30


After mixing up 3 cups of your base recipe, choose your oxide or mason stain colorants. Mix them in and sieve.  Make yourself a chart, or follow this example:

Our 3 Colorants were Robin’s Egg Blue, Bermuda Green, and Cobalt Carbonate. The picture is self explanatory. (Note: We screwed up #11  either by adding in 80% C instead of B, or just dipping into cup #10 2x)

Colorants, Percentages

Cone 10 Greenware Slips (Engobes)

Here’s the newest round of slips for leather hard/stiff application.  All but #7 will work for bone dry application. Not tested (yet) for bisque application.  Fired to cone 10 flat in a hard reduction.  Left side is super thick, right side is thinner.  Clay body is a Hawthorn/Goldart/OM4  stoneware – nothing fancy.

c10 Engobes
C10 Engobe Recipes
C10 Engobe Tiles
C10 Engobe Tiles

#1 Greenware Slip: Grolleg Kaolin 40, OM4 Ball Clay 10, Custer 25, Silica 25
#2 Greenware Slip v.1: EPK 25, Grolleg 25, OM4 Ball Clay 10, Custer 25 Silica 25
#3 Bringle Slip: EPK 20, OM4 20, Neph. Sye. 25, Silica 30
#4 BS v.1: Grolleg 25, OM4 25, Neph. Sye. 25, Silica 25
#5 BS v.2: Grolleg 30, OM4 10, Neph Sye 20, Silica 20
#6 Coleman Clay: EPK 50, Silica 25, Custer 25, Frit 3110 5
#7 CC v.1: Grolleg 50, Silica 25, Custer 25, Frit 3110 5
#8 Porcelain Slip: Grolleg 30, OM4 8, Custer 30, Silica 30, Bentonite 2

Pete's Clear
Glazed C10 Engobes

The light is cheating these a little bit. #1,2, and 8 seem to be the whitest, with not much differentiating them. #1 seems to promote the best celadon blues, although timing is critical, because it cracked when applied to a bone dry tile.  #2 seems to be a perfect middle ground in terms of versatility, cost, and whiteness. In my experience, the difference between a 50/50 grolleg/epk and a 100% grolleg clay body is negligible in cone 10 reduction.  The case could be made that it really matters in oxidation – which is just now bringing to mind the need to test these in c6 oxidation.

My picks? For Whiteness:

#2__Greenware Slip___

EPK 25, Grolleg 25, OM4 10, Custer 25, Silica 25, 45cc Water, 5cc Darvan #7,

For Celadon Blue:

#8__Porcelain Slip___

Grolleg 30, OM4 8, Custer 30, Silica 30, Bentonite 2, 50cc Water, 5cc Darvan #7